Beginners Guide to Cross Stitch
Cross stitching has come a long way since I started cross stitching many years ago. The use of masking tape around the edge of your fabric to prevent fraying is a thing of the past! Although I do know some stitchers still use this method to this day, which is perfectly fine.
We all have our favourite method and I always encourage you to do what works for you, however, I prefer to stitch around the edge of my fabric, I find it quite relaxing.
But first lets talk the basics…
In this comprehensive beginner cross stitch guide, I’ll walk you through the essential cross stitch supplies—from picking your first Aida fabric to mastering the basic X—so you can go from "clueless" to "fully finished object" by the end of this tutorial.
Photos included to give you lots of ideas.
What is Counted Cross Stitch?
Unlike needlepoint or surface embroidery, counted cross stitch is worked on a fabric grid. You follow a chart (or "pattern") and place your stitches based on the grid of the fabric. It’s often called "pixel art with thread," making it one of the most accessible crafts for those who don't think they are "artistic."
Here is an example of a free cross stitch pattern from my website, each square has a colour code to follow in the legend at the side.
Prepare your project by gathering the pattern, threads, fabric and needle, pop it into a project bag to keep everything neat and tidy.
If you really get into cross stitching you may get slightly addicted(which you probably will) and then you will need lots of project bags and planning cards to organise your stitching, but for now lets just stick to the beginner essential stitching supplies.
Essential Beginner Cross Stitch Supplies
Before you make your first stitch, you’ll need a few basics. You can buy a pre-made cross stitch kit, or "kitting up" yourself by grabbing these items:
Supplies
Aida fabric
Choosing the right 14-count Aida is the foundation of your project. Since "14-count" simply means there are 14 squares per inch, your main decisions will revolve around material, stiffening, and colour.
Here is a guide to picking the perfect piece for your next masterpiece.
1. Consider the Fibre Content
Not all Aida is created equal. The material changes how the fabric feels in your hands and how the finished piece hangs.
100% Cotton: The gold standard.
It’s sturdy, holds its shape well, and is easy for beginners to see the holes. Linen/Cotton Blends: These have a slightly more "rustic" or textured look. They are softer and less stiff than pure cotton.
Iridescent/Opal: Some fabrics have a thin shimmering filament woven in.
Choose this if your design features magic, snow, or water.
2. Stiffness and "Hand"
When you buy Aida, you’ll notice some feel like a piece of cardboard while others feel like a soft t-shirt. I have experienced both, the stiffer fabrics hurt my hands, so this may be something to consider if you have delicate hands.
Stiff (Starched) Fabric: Brands like Zweigart sometimes come heavily starched. This is great if you prefer stitching "in hand" (without a hoop) because the fabric provides its own tension.
Soft Fabric: Better if you always use a hoop or Q-snap. It’s easier on the fingers but can fray more quickly at the edges.
This fabric in the photo below is not Aida, it is soft but the hoop supports the fabric nicely to allow you to make your stitches nice and neat.
3. Picking the Right Colour
Don't feel limited to "White" or "Ecru." The background colour can drastically change the mood of your piece.
This fabric has hand dyed appearance but the tea stained look is actually stamped onto the fabric.
Background Colours to consider
Background fabric makes all the difference in the final appearance of the design.
Pro-Tip: If you’re stitching a design with a lot of white thread (like a snowman), avoid white fabric. Use a light blue or grey so your hard work actually shows up!
4. Size Matters: The "2-Inch Rule"
Never buy a piece of fabric that is the exact size of your pattern. You need a border for finishing and framing.
Calculate your fabric size: Take the pattern dimensions and add 4 inches to both the width and the height.
This gives you a 2-inch margin on all sides. This margin is crucial for stretching the fabric over a mounting board later.
You can find fabric calculators on the internet, my favourite one is this one at Yarn Tree , follow the instructions and it calculates the size you need to cut your fabric.
5. Check the Quality
Look for Zweigart fabric (identifiable by a single orange thread in the selvage/edge) or Charles Craft. These brands ensure the "squares" are actually square. Cheaper, off-brand fabrics can sometimes be slightly rectangular, which will make your finished circles look like ovals.
Always check your fabric before you start stitching, this has happened to me and I did not notice until I had completed quite a few stitches, and it was a good brand of fabric!
Floss for your project
Choosing the right floss is arguably the most satisfying (and sometimes most stressful) part of starting a new project. You aren't alone in your preference—DMC is the undisputed "gold standard" for several reasons.
Here’s a quick breakdown of why DMC reigns supreme and how to navigate your options when you’re standing in front of that massive wall of colours.
Why DMC is the Favourite
If you’re sticking with DMC, you’re in good company. Here is why most designers use it as their baseline:
Consistency: A skein of #310 (Black) bought today will almost certainly match a skein bought five years ago.
Availability: You can find it in nearly every craft store.
Color Range: With over 500 solid colours, the gradient options are unmatched for "painting with thread."
Texture: It’s 100% long-staple Egyptian cotton and double-mercerized, which gives it that signature sheen and prevents fraying.
Tips for Choosing Your Palette
Even with a favorite brand, the sheer volume of choices can be overwhelming. Here’s how to narrow it down:
1. Trust the Key (But Verify)
Most patterns are charted specifically for DMC. However, screen colors on digital patterns can lie.
The "Natural Light" Test: Always look at your floss colors in natural daylight. Store lighting is notoriously yellow or fluorescent, which can make subtle greys and greens look muddy.
2. Consider the "Specialty" Lines
If your project feels a bit flat, DMC has "sub-brands" that swap right into a standard pattern:
Light Effects: For metallic glitz (though they are notoriously slippery to work with!).
Colour Variations: Multi-colored thread that creates a gentle variegated look without you having to switch needles.
Variegated Snowflake Cross Stitch Pattern available in my Etsy ShopÉtoile: A newer line that has a tiny bit of sparkle woven into regular cotton—much easier to use than full metallics.
3. The "Dye Lot" Rule
While DMC is incredibly consistent, large projects (like full-coverage pieces) can sometimes show a "line" if you switch dye lots mid-way.
Pro Tip: If you’re doing a massive background in one color, buy all the skeins you need at once to ensure a perfect match.
Quick Comparison: DMC vs other brands.
If you ever find a pattern calling for something else, here is the "vibe" of the competitors:
Anchor
Bold, saturated reds and blacks. The black colour in Anchor is supposed to have better coverage than DMC.
Very Popular in Europe; slightly different “twist” than DMC.
Sullivans
Budget Friendly, often found in kits; can be slightly less shiny than DMC.
Weeks Dye Works
Primitive vintage looks, hand dyed and variegated and much more expensive.
Starting your first project
Images below to help with the process.
Now for the exciting part, starting your first project.
Where do I begin?
If there is one tip I would give for your first project, it would be to stitch around the edge of your fabric all the way around to stop it from fraying whilst you are stitching.
You can do this by hand or by sewing machine.
Step 1: Prepare Your Fabric and Floss
Find the Center: Fold your Aida fabric in half twice to find the center point. Most cross stitch patterns start from the middle to ensure the design is centered.
Separate Your Strands: Embroidery floss comes with 6 strands. For 14-count Aida, you usually only need 2 strands. Gently pull them out one by one to prevent tangling.
Hoop Up: Place your fabric in the hoop. It should be "drum tight"—if you tap it, it should make a sound.
Step 2: Making Your First Stitches
Cross stitch is just a series of "X" shapes. To keep your work looking professional and neat, the #1 rule is: Make sure your stitches all face the same direction.
The Half Stitch: Bring your needle up through the bottom-left hole and down through the top-right hole.
The Full X: Come back up through the bottom-right hole and down through the top-left hole.
The "Danish Method": For a row of stitches, do a line of half-stitches (////) and then come back across to finish the Xs (\\\\).
Pro Tip: Never tie a knot! Knots create lumps in your fabric. Instead, leave a short "tail" of thread on the back and stitch over it to secure it in place.
As a beginner I would advise starting from the centre of the design, you can start at a different place on the fabric but that can be something you try later in your stitching journey.
Example Cross Stitch Pattern of Mini Cat
Step 3: Following the Chart
Your cross stitch chart is a map of symbols. Each symbol represents a specific DMC floss color.
Black & White Charts: Use symbols like circles, squares, or arrows.
Color Charts: Use colored blocks with symbols on top.
Digital Charts: Many modern stitchers use the Pattern Keeper app on a tablet to highlight progress as they go.
I have used block colours to show the pattern, normally there would be symbols over the squares but you can now easily see the placement of the first stitch.
When stitching black or dark colours on white fabric be careful not to go across an area with a long strand where there is no stitching as this may show through to the front.
For example: Do not go from the top of the cat’s head across to the tail as this is too far away and the threads would show through to the front.
You could go from the base of the cats body and then onto the tail as you would just carry onto the tail without a break, not from the middle of the body to the tail, you would see it from the front.
Step 4: Finishing Your Project (The FFO)
Once your last stitch is in, you have a "Finished Object." To make it a Fully Finished Object (FFO):
Wash it gently in lukewarm water with a drop of mild soap to remove any surface dirt, do not rub the fabric together.
Iron it face-down on a fluffy towel so you don't crush the stitches.
Finishing your project
I have a quite a few tutorials linked below to show you how to finish your project into a fully finished object.
A small pillow finish here
This tutorial shows you how to make these pretty pillows, showing you step by step from ironing on the interfacing to completion into a fully finished object. (FFO in the cross stitch world!)
Ornament Cross Stitch Finish Tutorial Here
Check out my finishing blog for more ideas to fully finish your cross stitch projects into a FFO.5 Common Beginner Mistakes (and How to Avoid Them!)
Even the most experienced stitchers started exactly where you are. If your first project looks a little "wonky," don't panic! You’re likely falling into one of these five common traps:
1. Using All Six Strands of Floss
The Mistake: Many beginners don't realize that embroidery floss is meant to be separated. If you use all six strands, your stitches will be bulky, and you’ll run out of thread halfway through the pattern. The Fix: For 14-count Aida, always use 2 strands. Gently pull them out one at a time from the main thread to keep them from tangling.
2. The "Changing Directions" Habit
The Mistake: If your stitches look "fuzzy" or inconsistent, check your direction. If some of your Xs have the top leg going
/and others go\, the light reflects off them differently, making the piece look messy. The Fix: Pick a direction and stick to it! Most stitchers ensure the bottom leg goes/and the top leg goes\for every single stitch on the piece.3. Pulling Your Stitches Too Tight
The Mistake: It’s tempting to tug the thread hard to make it "secure." However, pulling too tight distorts the holes in your Aida fabric and makes the design look puckered. The Fix: Your thread should lay flat against the fabric like a blanket, not a tightrope. If the holes in your fabric look like they are stretching, loosen your tension.
4. Traveling Too Far Across the Back
The Mistake: Jumping your needle from one side of the design to the other without cutting the thread. This is called "carrying the thread," and it can leave dark lines that show through the front of your fabric. The Fix: If the next area of the same color is more than an inch away, end your thread and start a new section. It keeps the back of your work (and the front!) looking clean.
5. Licking the Thread to Thread the Needle
The Mistake: It’s a classic move, but the enzymes in your saliva can actually discolor the floss over decades. The Fix:Use a needle threader! It’s a cheap tool that saves your eyesight, your floss, and your patience.
Pro-Tip: The "Frog" of Shame
In the cross-stitch world, when you have to rip out stitches because of a mistake, we call it "frogging." Why? Because you have to "rip-it, rip-it." Don’t be afraid to frog! It’s all part of the process of making your masterpiece perfect.
Now you have some idea how to start cross stitching!
If you would like lots of free patterns and tips and finishing ideas, why not pop over to my website and see what other exciting patterns you can stitch?
Home page of my website here
In my Etsy Shop I do have some needlework supplies, easy patterns and cute printables to help you organise your stitching
If you want more ideas as a beginner stitcher I will be continuing with this tutorial over the next few weeks to show you some organising ideas for your stitching.
In the meantime enjoy the journey!
Date edited: Friday 6th February 2026
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